Upminster’s lost brickworks

A century ago visitors approaching Upminster from the north down Hall Lane would have noticed several lofty chimneys and other industrial buildings behind what we now call the Strawberry Farm (but then known as Chapman’s or Potkiln Farm). This was Upminster’s brickworks which dated back to 1774 or earlier and which at its peak in the 1890s employed over 20 men.

These works originally lay north of Bird Lane, where the land had a considerable depth of some 25 feet of brick earth, ideal for making into bricks, tiles and pipes –which Thomas Wilson said were the best in the neighbourhood. According to Wilson the most distinctive and oldest structure on the site, known as the Dome, could be seen from a considerable distance. This was an up-draught circular brick kiln, 70 feet high and 45 feet in diameter at the base, and 10 feet across the top which had been built in 1774 by Matthew Howland Patrick, who in 1770 had married Elizabeth Branfill, soon after the death of her husband Champion Branfill (1712-1770), who owned the brickfield site as part of his Upminster Hall estate.

At the time of his premature death aged just 37 or 38 in early 1777 it was said that Patrick “had just brought his sugar-mould pottery to perfection”. This reference specifically refers to a type of clay product that was used in the refining of sugar for which commercial sugar refiners required large quantities of different sized vessels. This suggests that Patrick had identified this as a lucrative market and indeed at the time of his death a buyer was said to be ready to buy his wares to the value of a hundred pounds a year. The kiln’s design was very like those used in the potteries around Stoke, which were more suitable for this type of firing of the clay products.

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Matthew Howland Patrick’s Potkiln (“The Dome”) from Wilson “History of Upminster” (1881)

There is early evidence of brickmaking at other nearby sites in Upminster. Wilson refers to a former brick field and the remains of a kiln further north at Brick House Farm, later known as Stony Hills. Field names here included Kiln Field, Brick House Field, Clay Pits and Clay Pit Mead. Just west of Stony Hills, Tylers Hall Farm is thought to derive its name from the Old English words “tigel” and “hyrste” signifying a wood where tiles were made. According to Morant (1768) the best tiles and bricks in the area were made here. There are also references to tile and brickmaking in the south of Upminster around Hacton.

It’s likely that brickmaking had taken place at Potkiln Farm much earlier than Patrick’s operations there. Either side of what was later the northern brickfield were three fields whose names indicate former brickmaking namely the eight acre Kiln Field to the east, the six acre Great Kiln Field to the west alongside Hall Lane and Little Kiln Field (four acres). An earlier occupier here may have been Samuel Springham who was said in 1708 to be living at a house by the brick kilns, which obviously existed at that early date.

According to Wilson, Patrick’s successors were a Mr Knight, a Quaker, and David Pinchon, who both also held Chapman’s (Potkiln) Farm. The production of pipes, tiles and bricks had become preferable to Patrick’s “sugar mould pottery”.

The first well-documented brickmaker is Thomas Sandford who was in business at Potkilns from 1812 or earlier to his death in 1855. Sandford may initially have been engaged by the Knight family to run the brickmaking business as in June 1828 the stock of 52,700 bricks and various types of tiles were offered for sale by auction “by order of the executors of the late Mr Knight”. Sandford may then have been the purchaser of this stock and gone into business on his own account, working seven and a half acre site on what must have been a fairly small-scale, seasonal operation, with only two or three brickfield workers shown in each of the census returns between 1851 and 1881.

The basic method of brick and tile making changed little from the Middle Ages until early Victorian times, with clay dug during the autumn and left to weather over the winter, being turned from time to time to expose the whole heap to the elements. Brick and tile making was usually on carried out from the spring onwards, once any chance of frost was over. Bricks were made by hand and left to dry for a few weeks, then fired in the kiln. Roof tiles and floor tiles were made in much the same way but were always made in workshops and needed greater care at every stage as they were likely to crack.

There is evidence that by the 1850s Thomas Sandford used a mechanised process involving pug mills and a pipe and tile-making machine. While ornamental bricks were probably still hand-made in individual moulds, the other bricks were usually mechanically pushed out through a mould and cut on a cutting table. At Sandford’s death in 1855 a large stock of 37,000 stock, place and paving bricks and 48,000 drain pipes remained to be sold by auction along with his brick- and tile-making equipment.

Sandford was succeeded in 1856 by Samuel Gardner (1802-1885) who carried on the business at Upminster for the next 20 years, and who also traded as a brick and tile maker, builder, maltster and brewer at Havering-atte-Bower from 1848 to 1882. Because of the seasonal nature of brick-making it wasn’t unusual for other trades to be carried out alongside brick-making at this time.

Andy Grant Potkilns map 1867

The Potkilns brickfield around 1867-68 (plan reproduced by courtesy of Andy Grant)

On 21st September 1876 Thomas Lewis Wilson and his business partner William Hook, a local builder and son of the respected Edward Hook, took out a 21 year lease to run the Potkiln brickmaking business. It made perfect sense for Wilson & Hook to add the local brickmaking works to their other business interests as it provided a ready supply of raw material for use in their thriving building works.

Wilson and Hook offered “Best red bricks, pipes, tiles and pottery” and the wide range of items that they advertised were:

Building bricks                                             Socket pipes

Paving bricks                                                Drain pipes

French tiles                                                   Flower pots

Pan tiles                                                        Chimney pots

Plain tiles                                                      Kale pots, seed pans

Ornamental bricks and tiles were also available to order.

On 12 November 1885, less than half way through their 21 year lease, Wilson & Hook sold the remainder of their lease. It may be that their lack of expertise in brickmaking meant that they found that running the works in addition to their main building business was too much. Certainly in June 1886 Benjamin Branfill wrote to him from New Zealand, probably unaware that Wilson had given up the lease, stating that “I hope your affairs are going more prosperously with regard to the Pottery than they were”. The sale had taken place on the same day as the death of Edward Hook, William’s father and Hook probably then took on his father’s building business, perhaps dissolving his partnership with Wilson

The purchaser was James Brown (1836-1921) a well-established brick and tile manufacturer who had been already in business at Braintree for 25 years and who had later added another brickfield at Chelmsford. Brown’s was a substantial business as he also owned Essex Wharf at Whitechapel and had a London office at 103 Cannon Street, EC.

Brown’s decision to take on the Upminster brickyard in 1885 was almost certainly influenced by the opening of the London, Tilbury & Southend Railway’s extension to Upminster on 1 May that year. Not only could passengers now reach London from Upminster directly by rail, but it also made the carriage of goods feasible, rather than using road carriers. Brown soon added a horse-drawn tramway that allowed bricks to be transported south from the brick field for over a mile to a siding on the north side of Upminster station. There the goods were transferred to adjacent railway trucks, from where they could be taken further afield by goods train, mainly for use in building the rapidly growing London suburbs.

Bird Lane cottages small

Pantile Cottages, Birds Lane, were built by James Brown for his workers

Brown completely revolutionised the Upminster operation, more than doubling it in size by starting excavations in a large field south of Bird Lane, and adding a kiln known as “The Shaft”. Bricks still warm from the local kiln were used to build the Plain Tile and Pantile cottages in Bird Lane to house his workers. He modernised and mechanised the methods of production on the site, probably spending significant sums in doing so. Although still producing bricks, tiles and pipes, Brown’s main effort was delivering the sought after and much more profitable ornamental bricks. This proved to be the great strength of his business as he offered a vast range of ornamental bricks at a time when they were in high demand. The Potkilns brick earth was eminently suitable for this type of ornamental brick which allowed the finest detail from the moulds to be faithfully rendered.

It’s probable that the skilled members of Brown’s workforce moved to Upminster with him, the Crosier family prominent among them: Peter Crosier, who had previously been a brickmaker at Braintree in the 1860s and 1870s, moved to work in the Chelmsford brickworks in around 1880, before moving to Upminster with many of his large family in the late 1880s. The 1891 census shows that Brown also provided a lodging house which had six brickfield workers lodging there, run by Elizabeth Crosier, the wife of Arthur Crosier, a fancy brick moulder.

At its peak the company – by now James Brown (London) Limited – employed over 20 men at the Potkiln works, making them the biggest employer in Upminster. The 1901 census for Bird Lane shows Peter Crosier as the foreman, and there were also four brick makers, three brick moulders, a stationary engine driver, a potter in clay, a brick burner as well as six brickfield labourers.

IL-SLI-UPM-67 Upminster Brickworks small LBH

Upminster brickworkers (Havering Libraries Local Studies Collection (Ref: IL/SL/UPM/67)

It appears that during the early 1890s James’ son Ernest James Brown (1860-1947), one of the company Directors along with his brothers, managed the business. At this time he lived locally and was elected to the first Upminster Parish Council, serving for two years and acting as Vice Chairman and overseer before moving out of the area.

Most of Brown’s Upminster production focussed on the new much larger southern field. The new kiln known as the Shaft, designed by another of James Brown’s sons Arthur Edward Brown, was a two-storey building 20 feet high, approximately 100 feet x 30 feet with a chimney at its west end about 80-100 feet high. This “down-draught” kiln had continuous working and was more efficient for producing bricks and plain tiles.

Most bricks were sent outside the area but one notable local building which used Brown’s products was Upminster Court, built in 1905-06. It’s possible that soon after the best brick earth deposits had been exploited and James Brown (London) Limited seem to have given up their lease by 1912. The landowner Champion Andrew Branfill attempted to run the works himself, setting up the short-lived Upminster Brick Company for this purpose in August 1912, taking on all the equipment of their predecessors and almost certainly some or all of the staff. Branfill took on the ownership of the 16 cottages in which the employees lived. Several of the brick workers who had been living there in 1911 were still shown resident in Pantile and Plain Tile Cottages in 1918.

Andy Grant Potkilns map 1920

Potkiln’s brickfield around 1920 (courtesy of Andy Grant)

Brickmaking stopped during Branfill’s absence on war service and no doubt affected by the lack of workmen away on active service. During this time house building was much reduced and scarce resources were diverted towards wartime production. By 1920 the actual brickfields were said to be derelict and the plant and machinery were in a very bad state and the Upminster Brick Company was wound up.

During the remaining years of the brickworks’ existence a series of short-lived owners tried to revive the yard’s success. That same year a lease was granted to a new company “New Upminster Brickworks Ltd” – formed in March 1920 by Harold Plowman and others – and who were in production by the end of 1920. The enterprise was short-lived and the company was dissolved in June 1923. It would appear that Foulis Construction Supply Ltd took over but went into receivership in 1927 and Upminster United Brickworks Limited succeeded them in October 1927.  The business appears to have been established by Arthur Edward Beck, an engineer from Banwell, Somerset, and his son Lyndon Arthur Beck, a brick manufacturer from Worcestershire. The major shareholders were The Gloucestershire Brick Company and The Weston-super-Mare Pottery, Tile & Brick Company Ltd. Like their predecessors the company met with limited success and after Arthur Beck died in 1933 that company wound up in March 1934.  Another company the Essex Brick and Tile Company also seem to have some connection to the same firm.

Visible evidence of the brick works progressively reduced. A 120 foot high chimney to the east of the north field was demolished in 1929 and over the next decade other structures were similarly removed. The Shaft was knocked down and the bricks stolen in the course of one night in the late 1930s. The Dome, which was said to be under threat of demolition in 1926, had also gone before World War 2, to the relief of local residents who feared that the prominent structure would attract German bombers. Nowadays the site either side of Birds Lane remains undeveloped with little hint of its former history identifiable.

For a detailed description of the operation of the brickfield under Brown see Burrell’s 1972 article (details below). There is also an excellent display about the lost brickworks at the Tithe Barn, with many examples of local bricks.

Thanks to Andy Grant for his help with sharing his research which has contributed to the content of this article.

 

Further reading

R.G.Burrell    “The Potkilns – Upminster” (1972) Havering History Review No. 7 p11ff

W.H.Dalton   “Note on the Upminster Brickyard, 1890”. Essex Naturalist Vol 4 p186-7

J.Drury           “The Brickworks of Upminster and Cranham” (1992) Havering History   Review No.13 p7ff

P.Ryan           “Brick in Essex: the clayworking craftsmen and gazetteer of sites” (2009)

T.L.Wilson     “Sketches of Upminster” (1856) p116-120

T.L.Wilson     “History and Topography of Upminster” (1881) p190-1

 

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4 Responses to Upminster’s lost brickworks

  1. Deborah Brady says:

    Hi Tony
    I am the heritage engagement officer for the Land of the Fanns Partnership Scheme based in Thames Chase Forest Centre. I would very much like to meet up with you to discuss an exciting project you might like to get involved in. My phone number is 01708 64 2977 or mobile 07842 021 601 or my email is: deborah.brady@thameschase.org.uk
    Please do contact me and hopefully will be able to meet up.

  2. Malcolm Heathcote says:

    When we moved into our house on the east side of Courtenay Gardens in 1949, the remains of the tramway were at the bottom of the garden. I believe the houses were built in 1910 so the tramway would have predates that.

  3. Pingback: Upminster Common Revealed: Part 1 – Bird Lane and around Tylers Common | Old Upminster

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